Category Archives: Oregon

A Daytrip Around a Big Mountain

After a few weeks of self isolation, and the onset of great spring weather, my wife and I headed out for a day trip through eastern Siskiyou County, as well as parts of Shasta, Lassen, and Modoc counties, California, and Klamath County, Oregon.

This is sparsely inhabited country, consisting of national forest lands, large ranching and farming operations, small towns, and stunning volcanic, forested, and high desert vistas. This was mostly a scouting trip to plan future explorations. Some parts of this country I had never been to, and others it had been decades since I visited. 

We drove this loop counterclockwise, starting in Mount Shasta.

Inside the 300 mile round loop is found Mount Shasta; the Medicine Lake Highlands, including the massive Medicine Lake Volcano; the McCloud, Pit, and Fall rivers, which flow into the Sacramento and then the Pacific Ocean through the Golden Gate some 300+ miles south; Lava Beds National Monument; the Tule Lake and Lower Klamath National Wildlife Refuges; the remains of historic lumber, agricultural, and railroad operations; large cattle ranches; numerous alfalfa, hay, potato, garlic, onion, and horseradish farms; and Native American reservations and historic sites. The trip also skirts the Klamath River along the Oregon border.

This region on the eastern side of the Cascades is classic Basin and Range landscape, combined with the spectacular results of Cascade volcanism. 

We loaded on provisions for the day to minimize our contact with others. We drove counterclockwise from Mount Shasta on this loop. State Route 89 (Volcanic Legacy Scenic Byway) going east takes you through the former lumber town of McCloud, then through federal and privately held forest lands for about an hour until reaching the junction of 89 and State Route 299 (Lassen State Highway). This portion of the drive treats one to an impressive view of Mount Shasta’s east side, as well as titillating turnoffs to a multitude of destinations (McCloud River and its falls; Pondosa ghost town; stretches of the abandoned McCloud Lumber Railroad (now a multi use trail); and Burney Falls and the nearby railroad bridge used in “Stand By Me”). 

As you approach the 89/299 junction, the forest gives way to views of grass covered valleys, flood basalts, and other volcanic structures, such as cinder cones and impressive secondary volcanic peaks in this eastern side of the Cascades, such as Burney Mountain (7864 feet). As you head east on 299 to the town of Fall River Mills, the highway climbs a volcanic ridge, with a spectacular canyon carved by the Pit River to the south. Here, one gets a view of Lassen Peak, as well as other prominent secondary volcanic peaks between Lassen and Mount Shasta. 

Forests give way to grass covered valleys as you near Burney, driving from McCloud.

It’s amazing how much water there is in these parts. Just north of Fall River Mills lays Ahjumawi Lava Springs State Park, which is only accessible by boat. According to Wikipedia, “The park sits on “one of the nation’s largest systems of underwater springs.” They produce some 1.2 billion US gallons (4.5×109 l) of fresh water per day into the aboveground waterways. Water in the springs originate as snowmelt from the Medicine Lake Volcano highlands.”

A readout just outside of Fall River Mills reveals the volcanic structure of the area. Layered cinder cone deposits are covered by a newer lava flow.

The towns along this trip are for the most part shells of their former selves. With the mechanization of logging and farming operations, the closing of smaller milling operations, railroad mergers, and the shift towards more sustainable industries (i.e. tourism), these are settlements still looking for a purpose and relevance in today’s world. Fall River Mills has done better than most, with a golf resort, nearby hot springs, and retirement development. Other towns are struggling to repurpose themselves. 

We stopped to inspect a forest service campground and have lunch. Just a few miles north of Adin is the Lower Rush Creek forest service campground, only 3/4 of a mile off of combined State Route 299/139. It was a nice little campground with the creek running through it, but you drive past several manufactured home hovels to get to it. In fact, the campground is situated within 200 yards of one of these shacks. I’m not quite sure what a night would be like at this site, as it seems that several of the nearby properties house cannabis grow operations. There is another campground (Upper Rush Creek) farther up the road, but the road was not yet open for the season beyond this campground.

At Canby, we turned north on 139 towards Oregon, we finally popped into the southern end of the Klamath Lake Basin. We made our way into the Lava Beds at Petroglyph Point, containing one of the largest panels of Native American rock art in the United States. It was pretty awesome, but sad at the same time, as one also sees the the results of vandalism thrust upon such a significant cultural treasure. 

From here, Mount Shasta again dominates the landscape, with Mount McLoughlin in Oregon also visible to the north. By this time, it was getting late in the afternoon. We headed briefly to Merrill, Oregon, where we used the bathrooms at the local Dollar General, then headed west on California State Route 161. We stopped for a few moments to enjoy the golden hour at Lower Klamath Wildlife Refuge, watching the birds at a gorgeous viewing platform. With hunger pains not too far from manifesting themselves, we headed home to Mount Shasta to grab some takeout before finally arriving home.

The Lower Klamath Wildlife Refuge, with Mount Shasta in the distance.

More Portland Grub

Medical issues necessitated that my wife and I spend 5 weeks recently in Portland. While most of that time was spent in two area hospitals, we did have the opportunity to visit some new eateries, as well as revisit some others. 

Reel M Inn

A classic dive bar, this was not only a must-stop for the fried chicken, but because our adventure daughter, Claudia (IG: @claudiafabbrini) tends bar there. Cheap beer, unbelievable fried chicken and jojos, and a lively atmosphere fueled by neighborhood patrons are a hallmark of this pub in Portland’s SE side. It’s takes about 55 minutes on average to get your chicken, as the bar has only one small fryer, but it is worth the wait. Incidentally, Bon Appétit magazine just featured Reel M Inn in a web post this past week.

Reel M Inn is at 2430 SE Division Street.

Fried chicken & jojos at Reel M Inn

Palio Dessert & Espresso House

Just located 5 minutes from the Reel M Inn in the Ladd’s Addition neighborhood, Palio is a cozy and unassuming coffee house offering an assortment of salads, paninis, and most importantly, desserts. Open until 11 pm nightly, this is a great place worth the drive from anywhere in the metro area to share a dessert and conversation with a friend or partner.

You can find Palio at 1996 SE Ladd Avenue.

From top to bottom: vanilla buttercream icing, cheesecake, chocolate cake, & chocolate shavings on the backside 

Tamale Boy

Unbelievable Mexican food. Period. Having lived in Tucson for 12 years, and traveled in Mexico, what I sampled here I’ll put up against anything I’ve eaten in the Southwest or Mexico. Tamale Boy features textures and tastes from southern Mexico, so it will surprise you if you are used to a more Baja or Sonoran style. The location on Dekum (one of two shops)  where we ate has a food truck ambiance, which derives from Tamale Boy’s food truck catering business. 

Dekum location: 1764 NE Dekum Street

Tacos on the left, burrito on the right, here I am, stuck in the middle of a choice. 

Petite Provence

We went here for dessert (a reoccurring theme in my life). Located in the Alberta Street District of Portland, one could order a wonderful French bistro-inspired breakfast or lunch, but why? when so many wonderful pastries and cakes are waiting  to be consumed. 

1824 NE Alberta Street. Arrange a great day of gallery and boutique shopping on Alberta Street around your meal stop at Petite Provence.

Resistance is futile. 

Papa Haydn

Dessert. Again. Our first experience with Papa Haydn was several years ago at their 23rd Avenue location in Portland’s Nob Hill neighborhood. This trip, we stopped at the original location on the SE side. With a more neighborhood vibe than it’s uptown sister location, it’s the perfect spot on a rainy PDX day to enjoy a hot beverage and a piece of cake. And then another piece.

Find Papa Haydn East at 5829 SE Milwaukie Avenue.

Triple chocolate cake at Papa Haydn.

Salt & Straw

There’s a bunch of locations in Portland and on the West Coast. The one I frequented is on NE 23rd Avenue, a couple of blocks down from Legacy Good Samaritan Hospital, where my wife spent two weeks at the Rehabilitation Institute of Oregon (an absolutely phenomenal facility). Salt & Straw creates wildly imaginative ice cream flavor combinations, with corresponding wildly imaginative names (Freckled Woodblock Chocolate, Avocado & Oaxacan Chocolate Fudge, Black Olive Brittle & Goat Cheese). I fell for the middle-of-the-road Sea Salt with Caramel Ribbons, a superb creamy vanilla ice cream with a satisfying amount of caramel and sea salt. Note: the lines get long for a cone or cup. Fortunately, pints are conveniently located at the register. Yes, I justified eating a pint, since it wasn’t much more than a double scoop in a waffle cone, and I didn’t have to wait 20 minutes.

We visited Salt & Straw at 828 NW 23rd Avenue, but there are several more in PDX, including one on the Alberta Street District.

Sea salt with caramel ribbons.

Original Hotcake House

Breakfast. 24 hours. Steak and eggs. Pancakes the size of tectonic plates. Need I say more? Just go. Indulge your breakfast desires at 1002 SE Powell Boulevard.

Tectonic plates disguised as pancakes.


Original Hotcake House.

NOTE: see an earlier post “Portland Notes” for more food experiences

Portland Notes

There is no shortage of good desserts in Portland

My wife and I had to go to Portland, Oregon, earlier this week for two days to address some medical issues. Here are a few notes from that trip.

Hotel: we stayed at the Park Lane Suites & Inn, located in the Goose Hollow neighborhood at the west side of the downtown area. It’s a hotel with outside entrances to the rooms; however, you can only access the rooms by first going through a lobby entrance. The room was clean and bright – we had a suite with a kitchen area and dining table. WiFi is provided. Numerous restaurants, as well as a Starbucks, Walgreens, and Fred Meyers are within 5 minutes walking distance. We booked our room on Priceline for $90 per night – a deal considering most hotels in the downtown area are double that.

Good Eats: dinner our first night was at Tapalaya, a Creole/Cajun tapas eatery with a Vietnamese twist in the east side Laurelhurst neighborhood. My wife and I split popcorn shrimp ($12), followed by seafood gumbo ($14) for her, and a crab cake for me ($14). But I really went for the beignets ($6). Served with a bourbon dipping sauce, they are guaranteed to induce a culinary orgasm.  They are as good or even better than Cafe Du Monde’s.

Beignets

The second night we ate at Oven and Shaker in the Pearl District. After a long day spent at Oregon Health Sciences Center, a simple pizza dinner was all we were looking for. Disappointed we were not, as we had a wonderful Neopolitan style Margherita (tomato, basil, mozzarella) pizza ($13), preceded by lamb sugo served over a crispy polenta, and followed by layered budino, a parfait of  chocolate ganache, whipped cream, cajeta caramel, and cookie crumble ($7). I could have easily oredered a second of everything.

Layered budino

And one must not forget donuts. One of Coco Donuts’ three locations is a five minute walk from the Park Lane, at 709 SW 17th. Classic donuts and great coffee.

Pure joy at Coco Donuts